Durham

From Northumbria and Hadrian's Wall we travelled on to Durham. Along the way we drove past field after field of beautiful yellow blooms. Someone told us this was rapeseed, which is used to make canola oil and animal fodder.
We arrived after the Tourist Information Center had closed, so we decided to stay at the Marriott. It was a treat to have a bathroom big enough to turn around in! And two flat screen TV's! Parking in Durham is hard to find, so we were delighted when they said we could leave our car in their parking lot while we toured the city.



On Easter Sunday we toured Durham Cathedral where the remains of St. Cuthbert are located, along with many other artifacts from early Christianity. They even had a first edition of the King James translation of the Bible. This is the same King James from Scotland, who was the son of Mary Queen of Scots and who was crowned King of England when Elizabeth I died.



The remains of St. Cuthbert are located here. The coffin that was carved from wood for him in 1670 (he was disenterred and reburied in Durham when he was declared a saint)is actually on display inside the cathedral. He is said to be holding the head of St. Oswald, who was once the King of Northumbria.



We also toured Durham Castle, where today students at Durham University reside. The kitchen that was built there in 1832 still cooks 3 meals a day for about 300 students. The dining hall looks just like the one in the movie Oliver.



It was a beautiful day. We took a lot of photos.

Hadrian's Wall

On Saturday we drove to Northumberland to see Hadrian's Wall. We spent the night in an old farmhouse called "Green Carts." The lady who lives here also rents space to campers and this evening there were at least half a dozen tents pitched in her fields.

The Roman Emperor Hadrian built this wall to help control the unruly Brits. At intervals along the wall they built forts, where the soldiers, along with their families, lived. The stone foundations of the buildings are all that remain today.



The wall stretched all the way across the country, from coast to coast.



Garold came a long way to see this wall. There is a hiking path along the wall. On this weekend we saw lots of hikers out exploring.



I wonder what Hadrian would think if he knew that now there are only sheep to guard his wall?



This is the latrine at Houstead's Fort. There were wooden seats around the walls, a narrow trough of water that held "cleaning sponges," and a bowl of water for washing hands. It appeared to have a system of aquaducts that were designed to flush.

Loch Lomond

This morning we took off to see another lake, on the advice of a fellow tourist we met at Loch Ness. He told us that Loch Lomond was beautiful and had lots of cruises so off we went. Along the way we stopped by Scotland's highest peak, Ben Nevis, and rode a cable car half way up - about 2,200 feet. From there we could have hiked up to the summit, at 4,400 feet high, but we decided instead to continue our journey toward Loch Lomond after enjoying the view.



The ride was beautiful! Scotland is full of forests, lakes, streams, and hills.



We were actually travelling through the "highlands."


The weather was superb. The local people called it "hot," but it only got up to about 70 degrees, with clear, beautiful skies.


Along the way we also stopped by a little town called Glen Coe. It was very small, just a couple of streets of houses, but some of them were very old. Their museum was not yet open for the season. So we went on ahead to Loch Lomond, and were rewarded with this view once we arrived:

Loch Ness

After a good night's rest, we were ready to tackle the job of driving in Scotland again. Our hostess gave us one good tip: if you are not sure which road to take at the roundabout, just circle it again. Roundabouts here may have as many as 4 or 5 roads shooting off in different directions, and you will have approximately 5 seconds to look at the sign and decide which one you need to take. God help you if you are in the wrong lane. Yes, some of their roundabouts have 2 or 3 lanes. The lane on the far left is the one you want to be in if you are taking the first left off the roundabout. If you are going straight, you will need to be in the middle or far right lane, and so on.
So we decided to get on the A9 and head toward Inverness. This is a very narrow, at times only one lane, road that goes right down the southern coast of Loch Ness. There are occasionally "passing places" on the side of the road where you can pull over when there is someone coming from the other way and you need to pass. Believe it or not we passed a couple of semi trucks this way! But the scenery was so beautiful it was almost worth the terror. We stopped along the way to have a picnic lunch and enjoy the view.

Loch (Scottish word meaning lake)Ness is a very long narrow lake that runs essentially north-south. Each time we stopped to take in the beauty of the place, we scanned the lake for any unusual creatures.

Here we stopped again and once again could not see any unusual lake creatures.

The water was unusually placid and calm today, so we kept a sharp eye out for anything that might pop up out of the water to look back at us.

Finally! We spotted them! The Loch Ness Mallards!

Stirling Castle

Today we rented a car at the airport in Edinburgh and took off to explore the Scottish country. We did not have a firm plan for where to go first, so we just went where the road took us. It's really a challenge driving in Scotland....on the left side of the road, shifting gears with your left hand, and trying to figure out how to interpret the road signs and navigate the many roundabouts they have here. So this first day we travelled approximately 50 miles altogether, and we ended up in Stirling, where there is another castle!


There is an open (no hand rail) stair case that leads to a catwalk near the top of the wall. There is no guardrail on the catwalk, either. And that is why I am hugging the wall in this photo:

Robert the Bruce once defended this castle against the English king, but when he realized he was outnumbered and the cause was futile, he began to systematically dismantle the castle so that the English could not use it. Strategically Stirling was important for the English who needed it to access their lands in the north. This is the most narrow place in the country, and there are two navigable rivers.
While the castle was occupied by Scottish royalty, they entertained many guests, and prepared a lot of food. They had at least five buildings dedicated to the "grand kitchens." Here are two of them that remain:


They've just hired some new help. He seems to be more animated than the other two guys, so maybe the royal guests won't have to wait too long for their steak pie, haggis and sticky toffee pudding!

When we walked to dinner, we passed right by Wallace's Monument. It is a tower that stands atop a hill overlooking Stirling Bridge. It was here that William Wallace stood in 1297 and directed his men in their successful attack of King Edward's army. Wallace waited until the English were half way across the narrow Stirling Bridge, then ordered his men to attack. After dinner we walked over to the bridge and this is what it looks like today:

Edinburgh Day Five

We saved the best for last. Today we got up early and had a nourishing breakfast of porridge and toast before heading for Edinburgh Castle. We caught the city bus to downtown, then hopped onto the tour bus - the ticket we bought yesterday was good for 24 hours, which means we can ride it until 11:15 today! This bus got us within walking distance of the castle entrance. Here's Garold entering the castle gates.


The castle itself is huge, but the audio guide we rented was the best I've ever seen. It gave a brief overview of each numbered exhibit, plus an option to hear more if you were interested. One of the more interesting exhibits to me was the tiny little room where Mary gave birth to James. Reportedly when her husband Lord Darnley came to see the child she told him, "He is so much your son that I fear it will be worse for him." Lord Darnley would be dead within a year, and Mary would be suspected of complicity. She would be forced to abdicate her throne to her infant son and would flee to England seeking protection from her cousin Elizabeth. But Elizabeth kept her imprisoned for 19 years before finally signing her death warrant. James would be schooled at Edinburgh Castle, and eventually, after Elizabeth died, be crowned James I King of England.
Another interesting part of the castle were the life sized statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace. They both believed in independence for Scotland and fought against English rule. Here's a photo of the statue of Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland:

The King's Room was a large hall that would have been used by the king for entertaining important people. Now it houses a display of suits of armour and a variety of different weapons from the time of Edward I, Bruce, Wallace and James I.


The castle sits atop volcanic rock that is 350 million years old. It appears to have been simply carved out of the rock, but on closer inspection, you can see how the masons simply used the rock that was there and added on to create the walls of the castle.



It creates quite and impressive and intimidating view from the city below:



This is our last day in Edinburgh. Tomorrow we will rent a car and explore the Highlands, the moors and the lochs.

Edinburgh Day Four

Today we decided to take it easy, so we bought a ticket for the Edinburgh Tour Bus. You can ride all day and hop off when you want to see something then hop back on for the rest of the ride. Each tour guide tells the story a little differently so you get a variety of information while you just sit and look. We wanted to see the John Knox House but it was closed (Sunday) so we went to see St. Giles Cathedral, which is the oldest church in Edinburgh. Our tour guide said that it is not a cathedral because it is the Church of Scotland. I think that it may have once been a cathedral and after the reformation, led by John Knox, it became Protestant.



It is beautiful inside, but not nearly as grand as some other churches we have seen. One of the tour guides said that Edinburgh does not do anything to excess. Perhaps this is also reflected in the architecture. The column in the photo below is one of the oldest parts of the building. This is the church where the Order of the Thistles assembles when they have business to conduct or someone to knight. The Queen of England is the head of the Order of the Thistles.



The tour bus took us by the Grass Market, an area that was used for trading of animals. There is a wide space between the two sides of the street where grass once grew, for the cows, sheep and horses to eat. At the end of the street there is a round stone that marks the spot where Edinburgh once held public executions. They say hundreds of people turned out to watch them. We hopped off here to take a look around and took a break at the White Hart Cafe, on the site of the oldest pub in Edinburgh.



At the end of the day we returned to the Royal Mile to have dinner at the World's End. This pub got its name from its location. It is situated near the city wall, which the residents of Edinburgh cosidered to be the end of their world. The food here was great! I had a lamb roast with potatoes and Yorkshire pudding. Garold ordered cranachan for dessert: raspberries soaked in whiskey with granola and creme and a shortbread cookie.



On the bus ride home we had a little trouble figuring out which stop to take, but a very nice elderly couple stood up to help us out. The people of Edinburgh are some of the friendliest I've ever encountered. At least half dozen times in the last few days people have offered to help us find our way around.