Durham

From Northumbria and Hadrian's Wall we travelled on to Durham. Along the way we drove past field after field of beautiful yellow blooms. Someone told us this was rapeseed, which is used to make canola oil and animal fodder.
We arrived after the Tourist Information Center had closed, so we decided to stay at the Marriott. It was a treat to have a bathroom big enough to turn around in! And two flat screen TV's! Parking in Durham is hard to find, so we were delighted when they said we could leave our car in their parking lot while we toured the city.



On Easter Sunday we toured Durham Cathedral where the remains of St. Cuthbert are located, along with many other artifacts from early Christianity. They even had a first edition of the King James translation of the Bible. This is the same King James from Scotland, who was the son of Mary Queen of Scots and who was crowned King of England when Elizabeth I died.



The remains of St. Cuthbert are located here. The coffin that was carved from wood for him in 1670 (he was disenterred and reburied in Durham when he was declared a saint)is actually on display inside the cathedral. He is said to be holding the head of St. Oswald, who was once the King of Northumbria.



We also toured Durham Castle, where today students at Durham University reside. The kitchen that was built there in 1832 still cooks 3 meals a day for about 300 students. The dining hall looks just like the one in the movie Oliver.



It was a beautiful day. We took a lot of photos.

Edinburgh Day Five

We saved the best for last. Today we got up early and had a nourishing breakfast of porridge and toast before heading for Edinburgh Castle. We caught the city bus to downtown, then hopped onto the tour bus - the ticket we bought yesterday was good for 24 hours, which means we can ride it until 11:15 today! This bus got us within walking distance of the castle entrance. Here's Garold entering the castle gates.


The castle itself is huge, but the audio guide we rented was the best I've ever seen. It gave a brief overview of each numbered exhibit, plus an option to hear more if you were interested. One of the more interesting exhibits to me was the tiny little room where Mary gave birth to James. Reportedly when her husband Lord Darnley came to see the child she told him, "He is so much your son that I fear it will be worse for him." Lord Darnley would be dead within a year, and Mary would be suspected of complicity. She would be forced to abdicate her throne to her infant son and would flee to England seeking protection from her cousin Elizabeth. But Elizabeth kept her imprisoned for 19 years before finally signing her death warrant. James would be schooled at Edinburgh Castle, and eventually, after Elizabeth died, be crowned James I King of England.
Another interesting part of the castle were the life sized statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace. They both believed in independence for Scotland and fought against English rule. Here's a photo of the statue of Robert the Bruce, King of Scotland:

The King's Room was a large hall that would have been used by the king for entertaining important people. Now it houses a display of suits of armour and a variety of different weapons from the time of Edward I, Bruce, Wallace and James I.


The castle sits atop volcanic rock that is 350 million years old. It appears to have been simply carved out of the rock, but on closer inspection, you can see how the masons simply used the rock that was there and added on to create the walls of the castle.



It creates quite and impressive and intimidating view from the city below:



This is our last day in Edinburgh. Tomorrow we will rent a car and explore the Highlands, the moors and the lochs.

Edinburgh Day Three

Today we took a bus to the city center and went to the National Museum of Scotland. On the way there we passed by the Court of Judiciary building where this man was playing the bagpipes.



The museum was pretty nice but not organized as well as some. We wandered around for a long time just looking for exhibits we wanted to see. Some of the more interesting exhibits included a giant steam engine, a skeleton of a young Viking boy of about 12 whose bones show that he was cut into four pieces and buried along with animals....perhaps as a sacrifice, and this life-sized effigy of Mary Queen of Scots that was commissioned by her son, James I, perhaps out of guilt for distancing himself from her during her lifetime.



And there was of course a display of a wide variety of items designed to torture and kill...this seems to be a recurring theme in European museums. Here's a photo of a guillotine that was once used in Scotland, but not for Queen Mary.



After trudging through the museum for several hours along with hoards of school children on a field trip, we were ready for a quiet and peaceful retreat. Lucky for us this nearby garden was free and open to the public.



Around 5 or 6 went back to the apartment, collected our luggage and called a cab to drive us over to the other (West) side of Edinburgh, where we will stay at the Beverly B & B for a few days. On the recommendation of our hostess we walked a couple of blocks to the Hampton Pub for dinner. When we arrived, the place was full of people who were engrossed in watching a soccer game (here they call it football) on TV; once the game was over many people left. I tried the fish (haddock from the North Sea) and chips and Garold had the lasagna.
Some random observations on food in Scotland:
tomatoes, mushrooms and beans are served for breakfast
sausage is served everywhere all the time
vinegar is on almost every table
silver settings almost always include a big (serving) spoon